The other goes to where the ground wire now is. For this, get about 2 feet of #8 copper wire, black will do, and make 2 pigtails off the solitary hot wire. (the last guy did a very ugly cheat he should not have done). The black hot wire coming in needs to be split to supply both hot terminals. Remove all the neutrals, and use wire nuts and a pigtail chain to attach supply neutral to the other neutrals. You'll never find that green grounding screw, so just run a jumper wire from this bar to the panel chassis. Option 3: Convert the neutral bar to a ground bar only. Or b) mount the ground bar with fine-thread machine screws (bolts) of -32 or finer pitch, and then you can ground the bar through the screws.
To bolt it down, either a) use any old metal screws to physically mount it, then run an actual #10++ (#8 would be great) ground wire to a suitable place on the chassis. Option 2: Squeeze a ground bar above the neutral bar, but it must be physically screwed down to the panel, it can't flop around. There is a green grounding screw that connects the neutral bar to the box chassis it appears to already be removed. Extend the ground wires down to it with wire nuts. Fit them and buy a Square D brand grounding bar that lines up on those holes. Option 1: The panel may have factory drilled/tapped screw holes for accessory grounding bars.
Ideal big blue wire nuts install#
The ideal way to do this is to install an accessory ground bar for the panel - however the last guy didn't leave you much length to reach it. Those neutrals and grounds need to be separated, and the grounds need to be attached to the subpanel chassis/frame. This sub panel has neutrals and grounds on the same bar. Run down to the electrical supply house and grab a handful. Second, I see no cable clamps on the Romex cables entering this panel. A few panels will allow 3 grounds on a screw, but always one neutral. The problem is with the subpanel it is very badly misconfigured by a guy who cut a lot of shortcuts.įirst, it is illegal to double-tap neutral bar screws like that, unless the panel's labeling or instructions say they are intended for that, and these aren't. The Red Model 452® offers the widest range winged connector in the industry from 2 #18 to 4 #10.First, you did the right thing by punching that main panel breaker down onto a single. The Wing-Nut® also features a tough, copolymer, flame-retardant shell that withstands environmental extremes with a deep skirt that provides maximum dielectric protection to prevent flash-over and turned-back strands. It can also be reused on same size or larger combinations for quick and easy circuit changes and additions. The wide range, live-action spring is flexible enough to handle small combinations with ease but then expands to accept large combinations when you need it. The specially designed contoured wings make for extra torque and quick work on any electrical job. The Wing-Nut® Wire Connector provides an easy, secure grip when connecting a wide range of wires. Removable for repeat usage on same size or larger combinations.Copolymer shell expands for smooth, progressive tightening providing dependable connections.Wide range, live-action spring handles small combinations and expands to accommodate large combinations as you need it.High-leverage, contoured wing design provides superior torque on every twist.
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